Exploring Assam’s harvest festival through its unique culinary delights

Magh Bihu, also known as Bhogali Bihu, is an Assam festival dedicated to ‘Agni Dev,’ the Fire God. It signifies the conclusion of the harvest season and is closely associated with lavish feasting. Assam’s culinary offerings are as diverse as the state’s rich flora and fauna. The distinct blend of flavours in these dishes is sure to take your taste buds on a delightful culinary journey.
Magh Bihu begins with the eve known as Uruka and continues through the next day. This year, Uruka will be observed on January 14, followed by Bihu on the 15th. During Uruka, people build temporary huts called ‘Meji’ or ‘Bhelaghar’ using bamboo, leaves, and thatch, where they prepare food, feast and then burn the huts the next morning.
On the morning of Magh Bihu, people start their day by eating ‘jolpan’ which is a sweet platter prepared from various types of rice like bora saul, kumol saul and served with milk or curd and jaggery. Another ingredient used in jolpan is ‘xandoh,’ roasted rice flour that is made by lightly toasting boiled rice and stone-ground to a powder.
Alongside Pitha, Bihu festivities feature other delightful treats like Narikol Laru (coconut laddoo), ghila pitha (fried rice dumplings), Tekeli pitha, Kachi pitha, and Sunga Pithas.
In recent years, there has been a trend of experimentation with traditional items, with some people using locally grown black aromatic rice known as Chak-hao to make these dishes. This particular grain has gained recognition as an important health-promoting crop due to its high anthocyanin content in the aleurone layer. Scented glutinous rice like Chak-hao has been cultivated in Manipur for centuries. The incorporation of black rice into the making of Pithas is drawing attention to the nutritional advantages of this variety of rice.
Another unique culinary creation prepared solely for Magh Bihu is Mah Korai. This special dish combines fried bora rice with sesame seeds, black grams, green grams, black chickpeas, and peanuts.